Samatva

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki

Ki Monastery. Temples of Himchal …13.

Ki Monastery forms the grand trio of Spiti monasteries with Dhankar and Tabo. Ki is a 1000 year old. It appeared much larger than the other monasteries, in size as well as the number of monks. It looks like a building pinched out of worn out rock and mud face. White and dark brown stick out of the mountain face and it takes the form of the rock face and is constructed over several levels sliding down.

I kept going back to this place over two days for some reason or other. There was a Thai national negotiating a monastery stay (was allowed only three days), an Indian, killing time waiting for the single bus in the evening that would take her to the next destination,  monks chatting. Then a monk opened a special room for me whose significance I have forgotten. I gazed at the monastery from the north, from the south.  I went across the Spiti river to take a look at it from far. Heart’s content.

I watched several rounds of monk volleyball; a round of chanting; lunch serving. I was roaming around Spiti in a scooty which wasn’t a common thing then in Spiti. They borrowed it and went round and round a small square with absolute glee. I dont remember a single fact about the monastery, but each hour of idle at the monastery is kin of etched in mind.

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki Monastery

Mataji, Mountains and Maggi, Dainkund

Dainkund. Temples of Himachal… 6.

There are several temples in Himachal on hilltops. Although they are neither grand nor popular, the location makes up for it.

Dainkund is one such temple. At about 9000 feet height, it is near Dalhousie, itself lesser visited than Dharamshala or Shimla. It is a nice family hike, not too strenuous for anyone; It offers a 180 degree plus view of Himalayas, if you are blessed with a clear day.

Dainkund is a hilltop drive from Dalhousie till a fork, after which the road is controlled by armed forces. My guess is a radar station and missile defence. That makes it a perfect location for the Himalayan vista too.

Each morning a defence vehicle comes down the hills and clears the start of civilian traffic. It is a snaking drive up to another spot where all traffic is stopped. Then you start walking: a sharp climb to a ridge and then walk on a narrow ridge top. It snows heavily and the repeated tourist flow melts and hardens the snow making it slippery to walk. After about 45 minutes or so, you reach the temple. Like most of the traditions of Himachal, this is a Devi temple, for Phaloni Devi.

Dainkund gives you early snow, a short family hike, a great snowcap view, ridgewalk, and picture book maggi.

Mataji, Mountains and Maggi at, Dainkund, Dalhousie, Himachal

Sun Temple of Sutlej Valley, Nirath

Sun Temple of Nirath. Temples of Himachal …3.

Depending on the source you rely on, there are 2 or 4 or 12 Sun temples in India. Konark takes most of the mind space, deservedly. Nirath along the banks of Sutlej in Himachal hosts one of the small and quaint Sun Temples. I was biking back from Chitkul, which is marketed as the last village in Indian territory. I know a 80 year old lady who has incredible travel spirit and she suggested stopping by Nirath. So, I went.

The town is a sliver of settlements between the Hindustan-Tibet (yes) highway and the Sutlej river. The temple is tucked away and you would miss it if you just stick to the highway. It has its own Goshala and a tiny grazing ground and in fact, a calf was lounging by the dining area when I paid a visit.

It was almost noon and there was no one around. The temple was locked, but there was a way to jump in. By the time I was ready to leave, someone came and opened the gate, and pointed out a mobile number scratched on the wall — a contact for the Pandit.

Nirath is small but the journey has its own rewards. Two hours from Shimla and the road drops by 7000 feet to reach the Sutlej valley, a spectacular drive by itself. In and around Nirath, you can see the magic that the Sutlej weaves, especially in monsoons. The drive is also along the apple country that eventually leads to Kinnaur.

Sun temple, Sutlej and apples… Nirath.