Samatva
Byte Sized Travel Stories
people, places and stories.
nothing else.
just the trivial things.......
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- All (76)
- Footsteps of Rama (3)
- Himachal (16)
- Quiz (0)
- Temples (16)
Case 1
Resilience
Focus
Will Power
Olympics
Elementor #6683
Manifestations of Shiva
Republican Traditions
The Variety of Sankranti
Surya, A Solstice Quiz
Gurudwaras – Legends and Locations
Gurudwaras – Legends and Locations
Lake placid at Renukaji
The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki
Harmony lived each day, Triloknath
The perspective of Buddha, Langza
Land’s end at Bharmour
Variety of Manikiran
Hanumanji at hilltop, Shimla
Perfect setting for the soul. Baijnath
When the whole town is a temple, Kullu Dussehrah
Mataji, Mountains and Maggi, Dainkund
Sun Temple of Sutlej Valley, Nirath
One of her kind, Bhimkali at Sarahan
Everyday life at Kali Bhari, Shimla
Philosophy at a glance, Kardang
Hatkoti, on its own
Coming out of Mud, Dhankar

Land’s end at Bharmour
Chaurasi temple of Bharmour. Temples of Himachal ….9.
Bharmour is as far as you will go. It is surrounded by 16000 feet high mountains on three sides, the hill equivalent of a peninsula. It is at the dead end of a sliver of a valley. Squeezed between the Dauladhar range and the Pir Panjal range, you can enter the valley by road, but can’t exit anywhere further and have to retrace.
Bharmour contributes to the Ravi river, though it is not the source. Ravi is one of the most secretive rivers of India, hardly flowing through any large city before it snakes along and forms a length of the Indo-Pak border.

The temple square at Bharmour
The Chaurasi temple at Bharmour is an experience. It is, as far as I can recollect, one of the largest temple complexes of Himachal. It is at a remarkable setting, overlooking hills on all sides. It is open and is not a walled temple and a collection of temples, 84, though many of them are tiny and share a common space.
The central temple is breathtaking. Alongside the temple stands a Deodhar tree, almost double its height. The most delightful part of the complex is the schools in the square. There are several and you can hear the sweet cacophony all around; and then suddenly it was lunch break. Kids poured out of the various schools, jumping into the temple. A cricket match, and a bunch of girls just giggling away. Far away from almost anywhere, there is unspoilt innocence.

Joy of a lunchbreak
Then the farm produce, the Bharmour Rajma, the walnuts, and chukh, the famous red chilly pickle.
Bharmour and the rest of the Chamba district will overawe you, totally bereft of the commercialisation you will see in Manali and Shimla. It is an effort to reach there, but next time you plan Amritsar, take the effort to go up to Chamba, and then Bharmour.
Land’s end. Chaurasi temple, Bharmour, deep inside Chamba district, deep inside Himachal Pradesh.

Bharmour Adda

The green basket distracts, but also keeps the place clean

Schools overlook this open temple square

Bharmour itself

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki
Ki Monastery. Temples of Himchal …13.
Ki Monastery forms the grand trio of Spiti monasteries with Dhankar and Tabo. Ki is a 1000 year old. It appeared much larger than the other monasteries, in size as well as the number of monks. It looks like a building pinched out of worn out rock and mud face. White and dark brown stick out of the mountain face and it takes the form of the rock face and is constructed over several levels sliding down.

Capping the mud, Ki Monastery
I kept going back to this place over two days for some reason or other. There was a Thai national negotiating a monastery stay (was allowed only three days), an Indian, killing time waiting for the single bus in the evening that would take her to the next destination, monks chatting. Then a monk opened a special room for me whose significance I have forgotten. I gazed at the monastery from the north, from the south. I went across the Spiti river to take a look at it from far. Heart’s content.
I watched several rounds of monk volleyball; a round of chanting; lunch serving. I was roaming around Spiti in a scooty which wasn’t a common thing then in Spiti. They borrowed it and went round and round a small square with absolute glee. I dont remember a single fact about the monastery, but each hour of idle at the monastery is kin of etched in mind.
The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki Monastery

There is peace in Buddhism. For every other emotion, there is a scooty





Across Ki and across Spiti river

Perfect Cone

Buddhist brotherhood

The punch of Buddhism

Thank you, for all that Spiti offers

Harmony lived each day, Triloknath
Triloknath. Temples of Himachal…14
Triloknath is a small, but primary temple in Lahaul valley of Himachal. The valley is cut off for six months each year. The snow blocks the passes and the residents just live out the winter. Every now and then, a chopper addresses emergencies; and drops firewood when the winter sours. That will soon change as the tunnel near Manali will make it accessible all year.
The Chandrabagha, as Chenab is called in Lahaul, defines the Lahaul valley. A thin strip of green stretches on the sides of the river continuously. Then suddenly there is a sharp rock outcrop with a vertical face, almost as if someone worked on it. Across the river. Triloknath temple is on top of it.
It is a totally nondescript temple with a deep message. Its original identity is claimed as both Hindu and Buddhist, 1000 or 2000 years old. The deity is worshipped as Shiva by Hindus and as a bodhisattva by Buddhists. The form of worship defines harmony. There are both Hindu and Buddhist priests sitting together. The pujas alternate between the traditions every few hours. The festivals also keep flipping between Hindu, Buddhist and common festivals. This is not photo-op secularism but deep lived harmony.

Triloknath towers above the Chandrabagha valley
The landscape around adds to the harmony. There are stunning patches of greenery amidst the sand and rock face. Chenab snaking through the thin valley. Suspension bridges adding mystery to the landscape. Streams cutting through mountain passes to feed Chenab. I was happy riding a scooter and took more than 4 hours to cover the 40 km distance along the valley.
Lived harmony in the temples of Himachal. Triloknath.

Chenab Valley

Around Trilokanath in Lahaul

Farming at the riverfront of Chandrabagha

The many suspension bridges across Chandrabagha


