Samatva

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki

Ki Monastery. Temples of Himchal …13.

Ki Monastery forms the grand trio of Spiti monasteries with Dhankar and Tabo. Ki is a 1000 year old. It appeared much larger than the other monasteries, in size as well as the number of monks. It looks like a building pinched out of worn out rock and mud face. White and dark brown stick out of the mountain face and it takes the form of the rock face and is constructed over several levels sliding down.

I kept going back to this place over two days for some reason or other. There was a Thai national negotiating a monastery stay (was allowed only three days), an Indian, killing time waiting for the single bus in the evening that would take her to the next destination,  monks chatting. Then a monk opened a special room for me whose significance I have forgotten. I gazed at the monastery from the north, from the south.  I went across the Spiti river to take a look at it from far. Heart’s content.

I watched several rounds of monk volleyball; a round of chanting; lunch serving. I was roaming around Spiti in a scooty which wasn’t a common thing then in Spiti. They borrowed it and went round and round a small square with absolute glee. I dont remember a single fact about the monastery, but each hour of idle at the monastery is kin of etched in mind.

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki Monastery

Variety of Manikiran

Manikiran. Temples of Himachal …. 8

Manikiran is a pilgrimage for Sikhs.. and the area around is bewildering mix of experiences. Manikiran is above hot sulphur springs. The small sarovar within the Gurudwara is always comfortably warm; and there are elaborate arrangements to stow away your shoes and clothes before the bath, including small plastic mugs. The Langar is cooked in the hot springs and needless to say, the Kitchen is always on.

Manikiran is on the banks of Parvati river which hints at its antiquity. The river cuts a narrow, deep valley; and for most of its length till it meets Beas at Kullu, it is hardly even visible from the road. People say that large parts of the valley don’t see the sunshine at all.

Kasol is nearabout and is a mecca for Israelis, if you can overlook the oxymoron. When I had first seen this area in 2013, I couldn’t believe you could have Hebrew menus deep in Himachal. It is a favourite jaunt for Israelis after their mandatory defence service.

That also made the nearby Kheerganga popular. There is term that a traveller friend of mine, Jitaditya Narzaryuses; Kasol Kids, who look for packaged adventure and selfies. So much so there have been murders and camping is no longer allowed.

It has one of India’s first private hydro plants, with water scavenged at mountain top and brought down 800 mts through a tunnel in the mountains. The project built a road. In 2013, I took the chance to drive up what was still a Kacha road for construction trucks. I had to sign a no liability declaration before the power plant would let me up the road. The road brought the legend of Malana closer to civilisation.

Malana is a settlement at 8000 feet. The villagers of Malana believe they are descendants of Alexandar, left behind by the war. They practice true social distancing from outsiders and you may have to pay a fine if you lean on a wall in the village. It is left by the Government to its own laws and grows the truly world famous Malana cream, cannabis. The neighbourhood is famous for constant rave parties.

This area has a bewildering variety, tough israelis fresh from service; weak kneed Kasol Kids; inbreeding and wary villagers of Malana; Delhi kids coming with a single aim of getting stoned; unspoilt kids of Parvati valley itself; trekkers to the Pin Parvati pass; and power plant engineers. Amidst all, Manikiran is still true to its antiquity, a pilgrimage. That is what we did on my second trip in 2017, with Virendra Dhir on his birthday.

The variety of Manikiran, Parvati Valley, off Kullu, Himachal

Land’s end at Bharmour

Chaurasi temple of Bharmour. Temples of Himachal ….9.

Bharmour is as far as you will go. It is surrounded by 16000 feet high mountains on three sides, the  hill equivalent of a peninsula. It is at the dead end of a sliver of a valley.  Squeezed between the Dauladhar range and the Pir Panjal range, you can enter the valley by road, but can’t exit anywhere further and have to retrace.

Bharmour contributes to the Ravi river, though it is not the source. Ravi is one of the most secretive rivers of India, hardly flowing through any large city before it snakes along and forms a length of the Indo-Pak border.

The Chaurasi temple at Bharmour is an experience. It is, as far as I can recollect, one of the largest temple complexes of Himachal. It is at a remarkable setting, overlooking hills on all sides. It is open and is not a walled temple and a collection of temples, 84, though many of them are tiny and share a common space.

The central temple is breathtaking. Alongside the temple stands a Deodhar tree, almost double its height. The most delightful part of the complex is the schools in the square. There are several and you can hear the sweet cacophony all around; and then suddenly it was lunch break. Kids poured out of the various schools, jumping into the temple. A cricket match, and a bunch of girls just giggling away. Far away from almost anywhere, there is unspoilt innocence.

Then the farm produce, the Bharmour Rajma, the walnuts, and chukh, the famous red chilly pickle.

Bharmour and the rest of the Chamba district will overawe you, totally bereft of the commercialisation you will see in Manali and Shimla. It is an effort to reach there, but next time you plan Amritsar, take the effort to go up to Chamba, and then Bharmour.

Land’s end. Chaurasi temple, Bharmour, deep inside Chamba district, deep inside Himachal Pradesh.