Samatva

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki

Ki Monastery. Temples of Himchal …13.

Ki Monastery forms the grand trio of Spiti monasteries with Dhankar and Tabo. Ki is a 1000 year old. It appeared much larger than the other monasteries, in size as well as the number of monks. It looks like a building pinched out of worn out rock and mud face. White and dark brown stick out of the mountain face and it takes the form of the rock face and is constructed over several levels sliding down.

I kept going back to this place over two days for some reason or other. There was a Thai national negotiating a monastery stay (was allowed only three days), an Indian, killing time waiting for the single bus in the evening that would take her to the next destination,  monks chatting. Then a monk opened a special room for me whose significance I have forgotten. I gazed at the monastery from the north, from the south.  I went across the Spiti river to take a look at it from far. Heart’s content.

I watched several rounds of monk volleyball; a round of chanting; lunch serving. I was roaming around Spiti in a scooty which wasn’t a common thing then in Spiti. They borrowed it and went round and round a small square with absolute glee. I dont remember a single fact about the monastery, but each hour of idle at the monastery is kin of etched in mind.

The pleasure of doing nothing at Ki Monastery

Harmony lived each day, Triloknath

Triloknath. Temples of Himachal…14

Triloknath is a small, but primary temple in Lahaul valley of Himachal. The valley is cut off for six months each year. The snow blocks the passes and the residents just live out the winter. Every now and then, a chopper addresses emergencies; and drops firewood when the winter sours. That will soon change as the tunnel near Manali will make it accessible all year.

The Chandrabagha, as Chenab is called in Lahaul, defines the Lahaul valley. A thin strip of green stretches on the sides of the river continuously. Then suddenly there is a sharp rock outcrop with a vertical face, almost as if someone worked on it. Across the river. Triloknath temple is on top of it.

It is a totally nondescript temple with a deep message. Its original identity is claimed as both Hindu and Buddhist, 1000 or 2000 years old. The deity is worshipped as Shiva by Hindus and as a bodhisattva by Buddhists. The form of worship defines harmony. There are both Hindu and Buddhist priests sitting together. The pujas alternate between the traditions every few hours. The festivals also keep flipping between Hindu, Buddhist and common festivals. This is not photo-op secularism but deep lived harmony.

The landscape around adds to the harmony. There are stunning patches of greenery amidst the sand and rock face. Chenab snaking through the thin valley. Suspension bridges adding mystery to the landscape. Streams cutting through mountain passes to feed Chenab. I was happy riding a scooter and took more than 4 hours to cover the 40 km distance along the valley.

Lived harmony in the temples of Himachal. Triloknath.

Sun Temple of Sutlej Valley, Nirath

Sun Temple of Nirath. Temples of Himachal …3.

Depending on the source you rely on, there are 2 or 4 or 12 Sun temples in India. Konark takes most of the mind space, deservedly. Nirath along the banks of Sutlej in Himachal hosts one of the small and quaint Sun Temples. I was biking back from Chitkul, which is marketed as the last village in Indian territory. I know a 80 year old lady who has incredible travel spirit and she suggested stopping by Nirath. So, I went.

The town is a sliver of settlements between the Hindustan-Tibet (yes) highway and the Sutlej river. The temple is tucked away and you would miss it if you just stick to the highway. It has its own Goshala and a tiny grazing ground and in fact, a calf was lounging by the dining area when I paid a visit.

It was almost noon and there was no one around. The temple was locked, but there was a way to jump in. By the time I was ready to leave, someone came and opened the gate, and pointed out a mobile number scratched on the wall — a contact for the Pandit.

Nirath is small but the journey has its own rewards. Two hours from Shimla and the road drops by 7000 feet to reach the Sutlej valley, a spectacular drive by itself. In and around Nirath, you can see the magic that the Sutlej weaves, especially in monsoons. The drive is also along the apple country that eventually leads to Kinnaur.

Sun temple, Sutlej and apples… Nirath.