Samatva

Lake placid at Renukaji

Renukaji, Temples of Himachal …2.

Renukaji is one of the quietest lake fronts in India and on Christmas holiday in 2017, I could not spot more than a dozen overnighters. Strange, considering the reserve area is only three hours from Chandigarh.
Perhaps, because hotels are not allowed to set up shop, that makes the place less attractive, comfort wise. Hidden inside Sirmour district of Himachal, it remains aloof from the rest of the State in every aspect.

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The birthplace of Parasurama, his mother is said to rise from the lake once a year, and a temple is dedicated to the same.

I reached Renukaji from Kalsi,a Buddhist edict and another interesting story, and travelled through roads that I would never be able to find again. I reached Renukaji only by evening. And while in the morning, the magical December mist had just begun to unfold, I had to leave.
Sometime again, Renukaji.

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Philosophy at a glance, Kardang

Kardang Monastery. Temples of Himachal … 4.

Kardang is one of the many monasteries in Keylong. Probably one of the oldest, the building has been rebuilt maybe several times. It looks quite modern despite being 900 years old.

It is across the Bagha river that flows fast, thin and deep. The walk requires either a steep trek down and up, crossing the river (or) a long winded drive which crosses the river further ahead at Tundi with a gentle, but long drop and climb.

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Armed with a scooty, I chose the drive and by evening, reached the monastery. The monastery has several things to see, including the rock carvings that I unfortunately missed. However, the most striking part of the monastery is outside of it. A sitting Buddha, maybe three or four feet tall, made of sandstone that you could mistake to be from Orissa. The Buddha is seated on a pedestal that is chest high, with a small pot of plants next to him. He overlooks the snowy peaks of the north, Ladakh and beyond.

To gaze along Buddha’s line of vision is to live the entire Buddhist philosophy in a single moment. There is absolute nothingness in terms of civilization. The view jumps over all of Keylong, the grassy slopes above it, and the treeless rock faces further above. You see Buddha and then the sharp snow clad mountains at the distance, in one frame.

Few places summarise their philosophy in just the setting. Kardang is one such.

Kardang, across Keylong, Lahual, Himachal.

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Perfect setting for the soul. Baijnath

Baijnath, Temples of Himachal…16

Timeless, grand, picturesque, popular, clean and peaceful. Very few temples have the perfect mix that Baijnath has. It is the setting for the soul.

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It is perched 50 meters high from the undulating Palampur fields. The river Binduka cuts a shallow valley along the edge of the hills. The temple has a recorded and verified history of 800 years; and possibly a timeless one before that. Shiva is worshipped as the Lord of Physicians in Baijnath.

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The temple is about fifty feet tall, very grand for this region. The architecture is impressive, with several elements of temple design integrated. Unlike most other temples of Himachal, it also has two balconies at the ground level.

The sculptures are a delight. They are richly carved; and the style and proportions of the sculptures are very uncommon. A standing Nandi and a slightly kneeling Ganpati are wonderful. A dash of hibiscus on the Ganpati; that sight alone captures the joy of idol worship.

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It overlooks the entire Dauladhar range that rises from 500 odd meters to almost 5000 meters in a single vertical span. In between is the shallow valley with a gently flowing Binduka. There are only a few temples that can match the setting, like Kedarnath, Mahabalipuram, Tiruchendur, Somnath..

It is maintained by ASI, so there is a nice clear grassy perimeter; and photographs are allowed. The temple excels in cleanliness even for Himachal standards. The  calm of the temple is incredible even though it is on the highway.

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For a complete temple experience, Baijnath is one of the places to head to.  

I first went to Baijnath in Himachal with my in 2013. I have been there twice since then, once for gratitude and the second time with son; and there will be more times.

The region around has so much to offer; the grand paragliding experience at Bir, the tea estates (overrated) of Palampur, the calm of Kanbari ashram, and the temple stretches of Chamunda and Kangra. It is an endless list.

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Then the incredible views of Dhauladhar hills from Andretta. Then there is the Barot valley and its funicular which I hope to see one day. The piece de resistance is the toy train that runs from Joginder Nagar to Pathankot. The train travels through unparalleled (and totally underrated) variety of landscapes overlooking lakes, rivers, gorges, snowclad mountains. It is actually a train that transports, without the touristy character of other hill trains. 

If you have a chance to spend two or more days out of Delhi, head to Baijnath region. Gaggal airport of Dharamshala is 50 kms from Baijnath.

A short beautiful drive through tea gardens; and then you are at the perfect setting for your soul.